diff --git a/user-guide/01-getting-started/01-assembly_guides/01_pioreactor_20ml_v1.1/02-v11-rpi-hat-assembly.md b/user-guide/01-getting-started/01-assembly_guides/01_pioreactor_20ml_v1.1/02-v11-rpi-hat-assembly.md
index 910842140..c2c7df059 100644
--- a/user-guide/01-getting-started/01-assembly_guides/01_pioreactor_20ml_v1.1/02-v11-rpi-hat-assembly.md
+++ b/user-guide/01-getting-started/01-assembly_guides/01_pioreactor_20ml_v1.1/02-v11-rpi-hat-assembly.md
@@ -17,9 +17,9 @@ import TabItem from '@theme/TabItem';
 1. You will need:
 * A Raspberry Pi of your choosing. Displayed are three options - you just need one.
 * <Highlight color={colors.blue}>Hex nuts (4x)</Highlight>
-* <Highlight color={colors.red}>12mm hex standoffs (4x)</Highlight>
-* <Highlight color={colors.magenta}>12mm hex standoffs-with-6mm-screws (4x)</Highlight>
-* <Highlight color={colors.green}>10mm screws (4x)</Highlight>
+* <Highlight color={colors.red}>M2.5 12mm hex standoffs (4x)</Highlight>
+* <Highlight color={colors.magenta}>M2.5 12mm hex standoffs-with-6mm-screws (4x)</Highlight>
+* <Highlight color={colors.green}>M2.5 10mm screws (4x)</Highlight>
 * <Highlight color={colors.orange}>Bottom faceplate</Highlight>
 * <Highlight color={colors.teal}>HAT PCB</Highlight>
 
@@ -44,7 +44,7 @@ The 40 GPIO pins (standing for general-purpose input/output) form a distinct row
 :::
 
 2.  Orientation: the base will have a flat edge and an edge with an indent. The GPIO pins sit along the <Highlight color={colors.blue}>indent</Highlight>, seen on the left in the images.
-3.  Insert the <Highlight color={colors.red}>10mm screws</Highlight> into the holes.
+3.  Insert the <Highlight color={colors.red}>M2.5 10mm screws</Highlight> into the holes.
 4.  Hand screw a <Highlight color={colors.magenta}>hex nut</Highlight> onto each screw.
 5.  Place the Raspberry Pi on top, aligning the holes, with the <Highlight color={colors.green}>GPIO pins</Highlight> on the left. Note: your Raspberry Pi may look different than the one displayed.
 
@@ -55,10 +55,10 @@ The 40 GPIO pins (standing for general-purpose input/output) form a distinct row
 
 <AssemblyInstructionBlock title="Step 3: Placing the HAT PCB on top" images={["user-guide/hardware-assembly/upgrade-version/rpi-with-standoffs.png","user-guide/hardware-assembly/upgrade-version/gpio-unpushed.png","user-guide/hardware-assembly/upgrade-version/gpio-pushed.png", "user-guide/hardware-assembly/upgrade-version/standoff-on-hat.png"]}>
 
-1.  Hand screw on the <Highlight color={colors.blue}>12mm hex standoffs-with-6mm-screw</Highlight> in each corner.
+1.  Hand screw on the <Highlight color={colors.blue}>M2.5 12mm hex standoffs-with-6mm-screw</Highlight> in each corner.
 2.  Place the HAT PCB on top. <Highlight color={colors.red}>Push down *from the corners*</Highlight> to secure it in place. The HAT PCB's GPIO connector will line up with the RPi's GPIO pins and may require a slight force to compress down. You can also use the next Tip below to help apply force.
 
-3.  Hand screw the <Highlight color={colors.green}>12mm hex standoffs</Highlight> in each corner, on top of the HAT.
+3.  Hand screw the <Highlight color={colors.green}>M2.5 12mm hex standoffs</Highlight> in each corner, on top of the HAT.
 
 :::tip
 By screwing down the standoffs, they'll help compress the HAT onto the RPi, too.
@@ -82,7 +82,7 @@ The 40 GPIO pins (standing for general-purpose input/output) form a distinct row
 2.  Insert the 10mm screws into the <Highlight color={colors.red}>holes</Highlight>.
 3.  Hand screw the <Highlight color={colors.magenta}>hexnuts</Highlight> on the screws along the flat edge of the bottom faceplate. Hexnuts are only needed on one side because of the size of the Raspberry Pi Zero.
 4.  Place the Raspberry Pi along the indented edge of the faceplate, with the <Highlight color={colors.green}>GPIO pins</Highlight> on the left.
-5.  Hand screw on the <Highlight color={colors.blue}>12mm hex standoffs-with-6mm-screw</Highlight> in each corner.
+5.  Hand screw on the <Highlight color={colors.blue}>M2.5 12mm hex standoffs-with-6mm-screw</Highlight> in each corner.
 
 </AssemblyInstructionBlock>
 
@@ -93,7 +93,7 @@ The 40 GPIO pins (standing for general-purpose input/output) form a distinct row
 
 1.  Place the HAT on top. <Highlight color={colors.red}>Push down</Highlight> to secure it in place. The HAT PCB's GPIO connector will line up with the RPi's GPIO pins, and may require a slight force to compress down. You can also use the next Tip below to help apply force.
 
-2.  Hand screw the <Highlight color={colors.green}>12mm hex standoffs</Highlight> in each corner, on top of the HAT.
+2.  Hand screw the <Highlight color={colors.green}>M2.5 12mm hex standoffs</Highlight> in each corner, on top of the HAT.
 
 :::tip
 By screwing down the standoffs, you can use these standoffs to help compress the HAT onto the RPi, too.
diff --git a/user-guide/01-getting-started/01-assembly_guides/01_pioreactor_20ml_v1.1/03-v11-wetware-assembly.md b/user-guide/01-getting-started/01-assembly_guides/01_pioreactor_20ml_v1.1/03-v11-wetware-assembly.md
index 52fe8df62..80fbf940a 100644
--- a/user-guide/01-getting-started/01-assembly_guides/01_pioreactor_20ml_v1.1/03-v11-wetware-assembly.md
+++ b/user-guide/01-getting-started/01-assembly_guides/01_pioreactor_20ml_v1.1/03-v11-wetware-assembly.md
@@ -30,8 +30,8 @@ The vial holder of the v1.1 comes in two halves; a top vial holder and a bottom
 
 <AssemblyInstructionBlock title="Step 2: Attach the window cover" images={["user-guide/hardware-assembly/upgrade-version/window-cover-parts.png", "user-guide/hardware-assembly/upgrade-version/window-screw.png"]}>
 
-1. Place the window cover over the window. It should fit snuggly.
-2. Attach it using <Highlight color={colors.red}>four 4mm screws</Highlight> (2 provided in the upgrade kit, and 2 previously used in the old v1.0). 
+1. Place the window cover over the window. It should fit snugly.
+2. Attach it using four <Highlight color={colors.red}>M2.5 4mm screws</Highlight> (2 provided in the upgrade kit, and 2 previously used in the old v1.0).
 
 </AssemblyInstructionBlock>
 
diff --git a/user-guide/01-getting-started/01-assembly_guides/02_pioreactor_20ml_v1.0_to_v1.1/01-version-upgrade.md b/user-guide/01-getting-started/01-assembly_guides/02_pioreactor_20ml_v1.0_to_v1.1/01-version-upgrade.md
index df6649d07..bfee08d84 100644
--- a/user-guide/01-getting-started/01-assembly_guides/02_pioreactor_20ml_v1.0_to_v1.1/01-version-upgrade.md
+++ b/user-guide/01-getting-started/01-assembly_guides/02_pioreactor_20ml_v1.0_to_v1.1/01-version-upgrade.md
@@ -22,8 +22,8 @@ You will need:
 * <Highlight color={colors.green}>#121 O-ring</Highlight>
 * <Highlight color={colors.orange}>Top faceplate</Highlight>
 * <Highlight color={colors.teal}>Flat headed 5mm screws (2x)</Highlight>
-* <Highlight color={colors.purple}>4mm screws (2x)</Highlight>
-* <Highlight color={colors.brown}>10mm screw (1x)</Highlight>
+* <Highlight color={colors.purple}>M2.5 4mm screws (2x)</Highlight>
+* <Highlight color={colors.brown}>M2.5 10mm screw (1x)</Highlight>
 2. Your original Pioreactor v1.0, to be upgraded.
 3. A Philip's head screwdriver. 
 
diff --git a/user-guide/01-getting-started/01-assembly_guides/02_pioreactor_20ml_v1.0_to_v1.1/03-build-vial-holder.md b/user-guide/01-getting-started/01-assembly_guides/02_pioreactor_20ml_v1.0_to_v1.1/03-build-vial-holder.md
index 81e1c3e0b..4e6e01a10 100644
--- a/user-guide/01-getting-started/01-assembly_guides/02_pioreactor_20ml_v1.0_to_v1.1/03-build-vial-holder.md
+++ b/user-guide/01-getting-started/01-assembly_guides/02_pioreactor_20ml_v1.0_to_v1.1/03-build-vial-holder.md
@@ -30,8 +30,8 @@ The vial holder of the v1.1 now comes in two halves; a top vial holder and a bot
 
 <AssemblyInstructionBlock title="Step 2: Attach the window cover" images={["user-guide/hardware-assembly/upgrade-version/window-cover-parts.png", "user-guide/hardware-assembly/upgrade-version/window-screw.png"]}>
 
-1. Place the window cover over the window. It should fit snuggly.
-2. Attach it using four <Highlight color={colors.red}>4mm screws</Highlight> (2 provided in the upgrade kit, and 2 previously used in the old v1.0).
+1. Place the window cover over the window. It should fit snugly.
+2. Attach it using four <Highlight color={colors.red}>M2.5 4mm screws</Highlight> (2 provided in the upgrade kit, and 2 previously used in the old v1.0).
 
 </AssemblyInstructionBlock>
 
diff --git a/user-guide/01-getting-started/01-assembly_guides/03_pioreactor_20ml_v1.0/02-rpi-hat-assembly.md b/user-guide/01-getting-started/01-assembly_guides/03_pioreactor_20ml_v1.0/02-rpi-hat-assembly.md
index dd3e3c4be..dc1504dbb 100644
--- a/user-guide/01-getting-started/01-assembly_guides/03_pioreactor_20ml_v1.0/02-rpi-hat-assembly.md
+++ b/user-guide/01-getting-started/01-assembly_guides/03_pioreactor_20ml_v1.0/02-rpi-hat-assembly.md
@@ -17,9 +17,9 @@ import TabItem from '@theme/TabItem';
 1. You will need:
 * A Raspberry Pi of your choosing. Displayed are three options - you just need one.
 * <Highlight color={colors.blue}>Hex nuts (4x)</Highlight>
-* <Highlight color={colors.red}>12mm hex standoffs (4x)</Highlight>
-* <Highlight color={colors.magenta}>12mm hex standoffs-with-6mm-screws (4x)</Highlight>
-* <Highlight color={colors.green}>10mm screws (4x)</Highlight>
+* <Highlight color={colors.red}>M2.5 12mm hex standoffs (4x)</Highlight>
+* <Highlight color={colors.magenta}>M2.5 12mm hex standoffs-with-6mm-screws (4x)</Highlight>
+* <Highlight color={colors.green}>M2.5 10mm screws (4x)</Highlight>
 * <Highlight color={colors.orange}>Bottom faceplate</Highlight>
 * <Highlight color={colors.teal}>HAT PCB</Highlight>
 
@@ -44,7 +44,7 @@ The 40 GPIO pins (standing for general-purpose input/output) form a distinct row
 :::
 
 2.  Orientation: the base will have a flat edge and an edge with an indent. The GPIO pins sit along the <Highlight color={colors.blue}>indent</Highlight>, seen on the left in the images.
-3.  Insert the <Highlight color={colors.red}>10mm screws</Highlight> into the holes.
+3.  Insert the <Highlight color={colors.red}>M2.5 10mm screws</Highlight> into the holes.
 4.  Hand screw a <Highlight color={colors.magenta}>hex nut</Highlight> onto each screw.
 5.  Place the Raspberry Pi on top, aligning the holes, with the <Highlight color={colors.green}>GPIO pins</Highlight> on the left. Note: your Raspberry Pi may look different than the one displayed.
 
@@ -55,10 +55,10 @@ The 40 GPIO pins (standing for general-purpose input/output) form a distinct row
 
 <AssemblyInstructionBlock title="Step 3: Placing the HAT PCB on top" images={["user-guide/hardware-assembly/rpi_with_standoffs.jpg","user-guide/hardware-assembly/gpio_unpushed.jpg","user-guide/hardware-assembly/gpio_pushed.jpg", "user-guide/hardware-assembly/standoff_on_hat.jpg"]}>
 
-1.  Hand screw on the <Highlight color={colors.blue}>12mm hex standoffs-with-6mm-screw</Highlight> in each corner.
+1.  Hand screw on the <Highlight color={colors.blue}>M2.5 12mm hex standoffs-with-6mm-screw</Highlight> in each corner.
 2.  Place the HAT PCB on top. <Highlight color={colors.red}>Push down *from the corners*</Highlight> to secure it in place. The HAT PCB's GPIO connector will line up with the RPi's GPIO pins and may require a slight force to compress down. You can also use the next Tip below to help apply force.
 
-3.  Hand screw the <Highlight color={colors.green}>12mm hex standoffs</Highlight> in each corner, on top of the HAT.
+3.  Hand screw the <Highlight color={colors.green}>M2.5 12mm hex standoffs</Highlight> in each corner, on top of the HAT.
 
 :::tip
 By screwing down the standoffs, they'll help compress the HAT onto the RPi, too.
@@ -79,10 +79,10 @@ The 40 GPIO pins (standing for general-purpose input/output) form a distinct row
 :::
 
 1.  Orientation: the base will have a flat edge and an edge with an indent. The GPIO pins sit along the <Highlight color={colors.blue}>indent</Highlight>, seen on the left in the images.
-2.  Insert the 10mm screws into the <Highlight color={colors.red}>holes</Highlight>.
+2.  Insert the M2.5 g10mm screws into the <Highlight color={colors.red}>holes</Highlight>.
 3.  Hand screw the <Highlight color={colors.magenta}>hexnuts</Highlight> on the screws along the flat edge of the bottom faceplate. Hexnuts are only needed on one side because of the size of the Raspberry Pi Zero.
 4.  Place the Raspberry Pi along the indented edge of the faceplate, with the <Highlight color={colors.green}>GPIO pins</Highlight> on the left.
-5.  Hand screw on the <Highlight color={colors.blue}>12mm hex standoffs-with-6mm-screw</Highlight> in each corner.
+5.  Hand screw on the <Highlight color={colors.blue}>M2.5 12mm hex standoffs-with-6mm-screw</Highlight> in each corner.
 
 </AssemblyInstructionBlock>
 
@@ -93,7 +93,7 @@ The 40 GPIO pins (standing for general-purpose input/output) form a distinct row
 
 1.  Place the HAT on top. <Highlight color={colors.red}>Push down</Highlight> to secure it in place. The HAT PCB's GPIO connector will line up with the RPi's GPIO pins, and may require a slight force to compress down. You can also use the next Tip below to help apply force.
 
-2.  Hand screw the <Highlight color={colors.green}>12mm hex standoffs</Highlight> in each corner, on top of the HAT.
+2.  Hand screw the <Highlight color={colors.green}>M2.5 12mm hex standoffs</Highlight> in each corner, on top of the HAT.
 
 :::tip
 By screwing down the standoffs, you can use these standoffs to help compress the HAT onto the RPi, too.
diff --git a/user-guide/01-getting-started/01-assembly_guides/03_pioreactor_20ml_v1.0/03-wetware-assembly.md b/user-guide/01-getting-started/01-assembly_guides/03_pioreactor_20ml_v1.0/03-wetware-assembly.md
index f5d2d6ab5..ea7d4ce82 100644
--- a/user-guide/01-getting-started/01-assembly_guides/03_pioreactor_20ml_v1.0/03-wetware-assembly.md
+++ b/user-guide/01-getting-started/01-assembly_guides/03_pioreactor_20ml_v1.0/03-wetware-assembly.md
@@ -16,7 +16,7 @@ You will need:
 *	<Highlight color={colors.orange}>Heating PCB</Highlight>
 *	<Highlight color={colors.magenta}>Thermal pad</Highlight> (contains blue cover on one side and clear plastic on the other)
 *	<Highlight color={colors.green}>Flat flex cable</Highlight>
-*	<Highlight color={colors.teal}>4mm screws (2x)</Highlight>
+*	<Highlight color={colors.teal}>M2.5 4mm screws (2x)</Highlight>
 
 </AssemblyInstructionBlock>
 
@@ -40,7 +40,7 @@ You will need:
 1.	Identify the <Highlight color={colors.magenta}>slot</Highlight> on the vial holder where the flex cable will go through.
 2.	Insert the flex cable in the vial holder, and through the slot, with the blue side of the cable facing upwards.
 3.	Pull the cable through until the heating PCB is flat with the bottom of the vial holder.
-4.	Secure the PCB from the bottom using the <Highlight color={colors.teal}>two 4mm screws</Highlight>.
+4.	Secure the PCB from the bottom using the two <Highlight color={colors.teal}>M2.5 4mm screws</Highlight>.
 5.  **Important**: the screw heads should be flush against the bottom of the vial holder, that is, no gap. You may need to unscrew and screw in again, or use pliers.
 6.	Continue to the [next page](/user-guide/putting-it-together).
 
diff --git a/user-guide/99-common-questions.mdx b/user-guide/99-common-questions.mdx
index fee6ee519..0530d4afa 100644
--- a/user-guide/99-common-questions.mdx
+++ b/user-guide/99-common-questions.mdx
@@ -119,7 +119,7 @@ Dis-attach the top faceplate. Under the faceplate, slightly unscrew each of the
 
 #### How can I increase the strength of the magnetic force applied to the stirbar?
 
-Try to reduce the distance between the stirring magnets and the stir bar by carefully raising the stirring fan a small amount. Going even further, you can remove the 4mm screws in the bottom of the vial holder (but find another way to secure the PCB), thereby be able to bring the magnets even closer.
+**For Pioreactor 20ml v1.0**: Try to reduce the distance between the stirring magnets and the stir bar by carefully raising the stirring fan a small amount. Going even further, you can remove the 4mm screws in the bottom of the vial holder (but find another way to secure the PCB), thereby be able to bring the magnets even closer.
 
 #### How can I improve mixing and aeration?